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 THE CHIMNEY
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In May 1975, Spiro Gourgaris had a plan. He acquired a piece of land across f...
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Yarra Valley: The Burgundy of Australia?
by Riley Krieger-Mercer <(Read Bio)
When we think of the wines of Australia, most of us naturally gravitate towards the usual suspects of Shiraz and Chardonnay, or perhaps even Cabernet Sauvignon. It is fair to say the most widely recognisable region is without a doubt the Barossa Valley. If you have a little more depth of knowledge, you may know about some delicious Clare or Eden Valley Riesling, and maybe a Hunter Valley Semillon or two. But there is another exciting variety we don't often relate to wine from Australia. It is a variety that has perplexed most of the wine loving world with its thin skin and fickle nature. It is a grape that can only thrive in these tiny, special corners of the world. It is the iron fist in the velvet glove itself. It is the heart-break grape, Pinot Noir. Although it is grown in a few select spots in Victoria and Tasmania, for me the most exciting one has to be the Yarra Valley, a region that is considered the be the Burgundy of Australia.
The process begins where all great wines do: the vineyard. In the Yarra Valley, Pinot Noir is ripened over an extremely long, cool growing season. Situated just north and slightly east of Mornington Peninsula, cool, ocean breezes ensure Pinot Noir the perfect temperature it needs to thrive in the Yarra. For this reason, it is much like Santa Maria Valley in California. But there are also similarities to another great Pinot region. The average temperature in the middle of the January is actually lower than Bordeaux or Burgundy are in the middle of their growing seasons, averaging around 19.4 degrees Celsius. Like Burgundy, Yarra Valley has two main soil types. Instead of Bourgogne’s limestone and marl, there are deep, well draining, red, volcanic soils and grey sandy loams with rock and clay subsoils that Pinot seems to have a synergy with. While overall the whole of Yarra Valley is considered to be cool, there are definite temperature variations depending on the aspect and altitude of the vineyard. Typically, sparkling wine production is made from the grapes grown at higher altitudes (500 metres) and the wonderful still, red, rich, perfumed Pinot Noir is grown as low as 50 metres in altitude. This once again relates us back to Burgundy with a concept wine lovers world wide have grown to love: Terroir. Yarra not only has a variation of micro-climates, but macro-climates as well. Pinot Noir from this region has really developed a sense of place.
In a way, you might say that Yarra Valley has grown up very fast over the last 40 years. Although it has a long, proud history of viticulture and wine-making dating back to 1838, the Yarra really didn't reach it's re-birth and world awakening until the 1970's and early 80's. Around that time it was home to only boutique production wineries, like Seville estate, Yarra Yering, Yeringberg, and Mount Mary. But the 1990's brought a lot of investment from large, commercial companies like Hardy's, McWilliams, and Southcorp (now a Foster's brand) and even Möet & Chandon (Now part of L.V.M.H.). Although this has taken away from the boutique, small production image that many associate with quality, the larger producers have put Yarra Valley on the world stage. Here are a few examples of some great Yarra Valley Pinot to seek in restaurants and wine shops near you:
Bindi 'Composition' Pinot Noir 2007, Victoria, Australia
Clear, transparent ruby core fades to a thin pink rim. Very viscous with lots of youthful colour. The nose is very clean with lots of bright fruity aromas of blackberry, raspberry, strawberry, vanilla and anise seed. The palate is dry with moderate acidity, light silky tannins and a full, rich mouth-feel that confirms what it promises on the nose with dry dusty tannins and oak spice. Good length. Good quality. Drink now.
Little Yering Pinot Noir 2008, Yarra Valley, Australia
Clear, transparent, ruby core fades to a thin rosy rim. The nose shows strawberry, cherry, and a little petunia. The palate is very light and easy drinking with hints of silky tannins, and sweet fruit. This very affordable wine, made by one the greatest Pinot producers in Australia, definitely doesn't have the body and richness of it's older siblings, Yering Station and Yering Station 'Reserve' but it would be great on a warm afternoon served lightly chilled.
Yering Station Pinot Noir 2006, Yarra Valley, Australia
Transparent ruby scarlet core to a thin rosy rim. Viscous and clear. This wine has clean, earthy aromas of clay, hazelnuts, apricot pits, dark chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry. It is dry, moderately acidic, confirms the nose with and added coffee flavour. The finish lasts very long. You can either drink this wine or age it for a few more years. Like the 1997 below.
Yering Station Pinot Noir 1997, Yarra Valley, Australia
Clear, transparent core fades to thin orange brick rim. It appears star bright, lightly viscous and appears to be developed. And the nose and palate follow through. This wine is clean, but earthy! Showing cigar box, leather, barnyard, violets, roses, figs, earth and forest floor. The palate is dry with a little acid still left and a full rich mouth-feel packed with earthy qualities like cocoa, clove, coconut shell, cinnamon, nutmeg, purple flowers, and currants. What a finish. Excellent quality. Drink now!
As Pinot Noir vines of the Yarra Valley grow older and the vineyard managers learn the secrets of its terroirs, we are smelling and tasting the results: Clean, luscious, yet tartly balanced wines of great fruit expression. Yarra Valley Pinot Noirs are wines of elegance, finesse and longevity. There are many great Pinots of the world, from Burgundy, to the Central Coast of California, to the Willamette Valley of Oregon, and more closely, Central Otago, New Zealand. In this humble Sommelier's opinion, Yarra Valley Pinot Noir deserves to stand amongst the best.
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