There is no question that the white wines en vogue at the moment are crisp styles with little to no oak ageing. They have high acid and zesty flavors about them. They are easy drinking and make great patio sippers on a hot summer’s day. A lot of people are drinking Sauvignon Blanc, dry style Riesling, Viognier, and un-oaked Chardonnay.

But there is another grape that seems to get lost in the shuffle. A grape that has been blended with Sauvignon Blanc in Bordeaux for hundreds of years. It finds its home in the Hunter Valley of Australia. It’s called Semillon (sem-ee-yon).

The Hunter Valley is the oldest wine producing region in Australia. Grapevines arrived with the original cuttings from Europe as brought by James Busby in the late 1700’s. Like nearly all of Australia’s wine regions, in terms of red grapes, Shiraz reigns supreme. But the truly unique quality of the Hunter Valley white wines is produced by this loose clustered and richly flavoured grape, Semillon.

While young, Semillon shows a little bit of a grassy character but also has a wonderful gun powder and flinty mineral component. Semillon will often show lots of citrus fruit like lemons and limes. It is age that really brings out the best qualities in this not so well known variety, however.

As Hunter Semillon ages, it developes a rich mid-palate (very round in texture). The mineral and citrus fruit still persist but they evolve into a rich honeyed, nuttiness sometimes showing vanilla, and cream. This all happens without malo-lactic fermentation (the process used to give to most Chardonnay it’s creaminess) and without ageing in French Oak barrel (the component of wine-making that usually gives a wine structure and vanilla flavors). Here are a few Hunter Valley Semillons for which to keep a lookout.

Brokenwood Semillon 2009, Hunter Valley, Australia

Clear, dry and zesty. This Semillon is still quite young in it’s evolution. The acid is high, the flavors are still mainly citrus (lemon, lime) and steel as well as a fresh cut grass, and prune. There is the beginnings of a honeyed finish, but the mid palate will take some time to broaden although it has a nice chalkiness. This is a great wine to sip on a hot summers day or to sit on for 5 to 10 years. Great producer! Great vintage! Very typical of the Hunter.

Brokenwood �ILR’ Reserve Semillon 2003, Hunter Valley, Australia

The nose is very aromatic and clean with notes of flint, steel, white flowers, pencil shavings, and green apple. The palate is bone dry with a rich full mouth-feel, showing, cream, almond, vanilla, honeysuckles. This is truly the nectar of the wine gods! Although it is do developed and complex, this wine could age longer. If you can find this fantastic vintage from a fantastic producer, buy as much as you can. You’ll thank me later!

Poole’s Rock Semillon 2007, Hunter Valley, Australia

Clean, and minerally but with lots of fruit to back it. This Semillon shows citrus, peach, kiwi, flint, and fresh cut grass. The palate is dry but quite honeyed, with more than moderate acid and flavors that confirm the nose. The finish is very long, and although the few years it has aged have started to show, this is one more Hunter Semillon to sit on for a few more years. Delicious.

Mount Pleasant �Elizabeth’ Semillon 2004, Hunter Valley, Australia

A great example of how age will benefit Hunter Semillon. 2004 was not considered to be a great vintage to say the least. Problems with rain and corresponding mildew made the growing season very challenging. But the colour of this wine is quite developed as are the flavors. It is Richly golden, with a green tinge, showing apricot, honey and canned pear. The palate is dry, clean and toasty with a full mid-palate that confirms its nose with moderate acidity and a long, lingering finish.

Tinkler’s �School Block’ Semillon 2008, Hunter Valley, Australia

A very small producer indeed. Total annual production is 1,000 cases of wine. The rest of the fruit is sold to Mount Pleasant. But unfortunately, vintage has shined through in the 2008 School Block Semillon. It’s a little musty, not unlike green bell peppers. The nose and palate also show dandelion, pear, and apricots. There is a certain gun flint mineral component and the acids are quite high. Although it is a very fresh, crisp and clean wine, it will need time for the muskiness to settle down into a more developed, rich Semillon.

Tyrell’s �Vat 1’ Semillon 1998, Hunter Valley, Australia

Clear and golden yellow. This aged delight is very viscous and the nose is packed with buttermilk, cream, citrus, prunes, apricots, and saline. Although the wine is dry, there is such sweet fruit on the palate and a rich, full mouth-feel. The acids are still quite pronounced, and there is a wonderful nectary, yeasty, bread dough thing going on. The finish lasts nearly forever. This wine is a show-stopper. It is a great example of what aged Hunter Semillon turns into. Chances are, you will not be able to find a vintage as old as the 1998. If you find a more current release, there will be massive rewards for your patience, should you decide to cellar it.

McLeish Estate Semillon 2002, Hunter Valley Australia

Clear, golden and quite viscous, this wine is from a boutique producer that is very hard to come by outside of Australia. But like all great wines, they seem to creep up in places you might not expect. The nose shows lots of apricots, sultana raisins, dandelions, daffodils, and honey. The palate is dry with a full mouth-feel and a very long evolution from the attack of limey acidity and mineral to the smooth and supple, musky, nuttiness. This Semillon is showing beautifully right now.